We sail out of Ushuaia in spitting drizzle and fog. It’s only four hours to Puerto Williams, and we celebrate our departure with a bottle of champagne. The boat’s strict no drinking while underway policy is already falling by the wayside. I quickly discover that Spirt of Sydney, built as a solo around-the-world racer, offers almost nowhere to sit out on deck. We eat our chicken curry dinner while standing, trying to keep out of the rain.
Trying to avoid getting stuck cleaning dishes, I grab my cameras and head back on deck, photographing the warm glow from down below as the midnight sun fades.